专利摘要:
The invention relates to a process for the permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in the order given the following steps: A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers , A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinse off the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) apply a cosmetic agent (b) on the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinsing the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) applying a binding agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinsing off the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers - the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds e and the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and - the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) hydrogen peroxide. Another object of the present invention is a Kit-of-Parts which comprises agents (a), (b) and (c), made separately in containers (A), (B) and (C).
公开号:FR3042973A1
申请号:FR1660409
申请日:2016-10-27
公开日:2017-05-05
发明作者:Birgit Rautenberg-Groth；Matthias Schweinsberg
申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and relates to processes for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which are characterized by the successive application of a first permanent waving agent, a second intermediate treatment agent, and a third fixing means. Each of these three means is then applied to the keratin fibers, allowed to act, and rinsed off before the next agent is applied to the keratin fibers. Another object of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), intended for permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, which comprises the three agents placed in separately made containers.
Permanent reshaping of the keratin fibers is generally carried out in such a way that the fibers are mechanically shaped and the shaping is fixed by appropriate auxiliary means (for example hair curlers, papillotes). Before and / or after this shaping, the fibers are treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin reduction substance and rinsed, after a time of action, with water or an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After a time of action, this oxidizing agent is removed by rinsing and the fibers are released by mechanical auxiliary means of shaping.
A keratin fiber shaping, permanent and stable with respect to the action of water, can only be achieved by chemical interventions in the hair which aim to cut disulfide bonds between cysteine found in keratin hair. This cut is usually performed under the action of keratin reducing substances. These are reducing agents which cut a portion of the disulfide bonds of keratin to form -SH groups so as to obtain a relaxation of the crosslinking of the peptides. The tension of the keratin fibers wound on a curler causes a reorientation of the structure of the keratin. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent, the disulfide bonds recombine and the keratin structure is again fixed in the predetermined shaping. Such a known method is the treatment of permanent human hair. This method can be applied both to produce curls and ripples on smooth hair and to smooth curly hair.
After the permanent treatment, curly hair is obtained which is under tension inside, which contains new amino acids (modified by reduction or oxidation) and which are incompletely crosslinked. This can lead to a gradual and slow release of the shaping, that is to say that the crinkle is undone. Another negative side effect of permed hair is often damage to the structure of the hair, since the inside of the hair and the surface of the hair become more hydrophilic due to the combination of reduction and oxidation steps. For this reason, high humidity, frequent shampoos or frequent combing and brushing may result in a decrease in the wavy effect on damaged hair. We are always looking for new agents or permanent process that can avoid all these known disadvantages.
There was therefore a need to find new methods or means for permanently shaping keratin fibers which exhibits an improved corrugation action of long duration and which at the same time develops a possibly maximum maintenance action on the hair.
Surprisingly, it has now been found that this problem can be optimally solved when the keratin fibers are waved for a long time or permanently shaped in a process in which three special agents are successively used.
A first object of the present invention is a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises in the order given the following steps consisting of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) on the keratin fibers, A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) applying a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinsing off the fixing agent (c) keratin fibers, the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or several keratin reduction compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) contain (b1) one or more aliphatic C 2 -C aliphatic dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) peroxide hydrogen.
The term "keratin fibers", "fibers containing keratin or keratin fibers" means skins, wool, feathers, in particular human hair. Although the agents of the invention are particularly suitable for the permanent shaping of keratin fibers, there is nothing in principle against using them in other fields as well.
The term "permanent shaping of keratin fibers" is intended to mean a shaping in which a reducing agent and then an oxidizing agent are first applied to the keratin fibers. The influence of the reducing agent first leads to a cut by reduction of the disulfide bonds between cysts found in the hair. During the shaping process, the hair is put into a new shape by means of mechanical auxiliary shaping means (for example curlers, twists, etc.). The mechanical shaping of the hair can be carried out before, during or after the application of the reducing agent. The application of the oxidizing agent makes it possible to generate new disulphide bonds in the shaped keratin fibers and thus to fix the keratin fibers. Permanent shaping usually holds several washes.
It is characteristic and essential that the method of the invention comprise steps A), B) and C) consisting of: A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) allowing the action of permanent waving agent (a) for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the fibers of keratin, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) optionally rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) applying a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allow the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinse the fixing agent (c) with the keratin fibers.
Firstly, a permanent corrugating agent (a) is applied to the keratin fibers (step A1)) on which it is allowed to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes (step A2)) and is then removed by rinsing. (step A3)). Rinse removal of the agent (a) can be carried out for example only with tap water or with a shampoo or conditioner. The permanent waving agent (a) contains at least one keratin reducing compound and may also contain mixtures of several keratin reducing agents.
An essential characteristic of the invention of the process of the invention is to rinse off the permanent waving agent (a), containing a reducing agent, of keratin fibers before applying the cosmetic agent (b). on keratin fibers.
It is possible, but not necessary, to dry the keratin fibers after rinsing off the agent (a) (e.g., after step A3)). Preferably, the application of the agent (b) is performed on keratin fibers dried with the towel or slightly damp. The cosmetic agent (b) is an intermediate treatment agent, i.e. the agent (b) is applied to the keratin fibers after rinsing off the permanent waving agent. (a) (step B1)), allowed to act on the keratin fibers (step B2)) and then removed by rinsing (step B3)). The intermediate treatment agent (b) contains at least one aliphatic C2 to C8 dicarboxylic acid. Rinse removal of the agent (b) can be carried out for example only with tap water or with a shampoo or conditioner. It is also possible here, but not necessary, to dry the keratin fibers after rinsing off the agent (b) (e.g., after step B3)). Preferably, the application of the agent (c) is performed on keratin fibers dried with the towel or a little wet.
After having rinsed off the intermediate treatment agent (b), then the binding agent containing (c), containing an oxidizing agent, is applied to the keratin fibers (step C1)). Similarly, the binding agent is allowed to act on the keratin fibers (step C2)) and is then removed by rinsing (step C3). Here again, the rinsing of the agent (c) can be carried out for example either with tap water alone or with a shampoo or a conditioner. The fixing agent (c) contains hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent.
The three agents (a), (b) and (c) are allowed to act in steps A2), B2) and C2) each time for a period of 2 to 60 minutes. Preferably, the action time of the agent (a) is from 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes and particularly preferably from 15 to 40 minutes. Preferably, the time of action of the agent (b) is from 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 7 to 35 minutes and particularly preferably from 10 to 25 minutes. Preferably, the action time of the agent (c) is from 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, and particularly preferably from 15 to 40 minutes.
A preferred embodiment is therefore a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, and in particular human hair, which comprises in the order indicated the following steps consisting of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) on the keratin fibers, A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 10 to 45 minutes, A3) rinse out the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1 ) applying a cosmetic agent (b) on the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 7 to 35 minutes, B3) rinsing the cosmetic agent (b) with keratin fibers , C1) applying a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 10 to 45 minutes, C3) rinsing off the fixing agent (c) ) keratin fibers, the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C 2 to C aliphatic dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
Another particularly preferred embodiment is a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising in the order indicated the following steps: A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 15 to 40 minutes, A3) rinse off the permanent waving agent (a) of the keratin fibers, B1) apply a cosmetic agent (b) on the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 10 to 25 minutes, B3) rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1 ) apply a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allow the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 15 to 40 minutes, C3) rinse off the fixing agent (c) keratin fibers, permanent waving agent (a) c comprising (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c) hydrogen peroxide.
During a permanent shaping process, the shaping of keratin fibers or hair is carried out using a mechanical auxiliary shaping means. For example, locks of hair are first rolled up individually on curlers and then treated with agents (a), (b) and (c). However, it is also possible to treat the hair first with the reducing agent (a), to eliminate it by rinsing, then to turn the hair on the curlers, and then to apply the agents (b). ) and (c).
A preferred embodiment is therefore a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, and in particular human hair, comprising in the order indicated the following steps: A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) applying a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinsing off the fixing agent (c) keratin fibers, the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1 ) one or more keratin reduction compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1 ) hydrogen peroxide, and the keratin fibers being shaped using auxiliary shaping means before, after or during step A1), A2), A3), B1), B2), B3), C1), C2) and / or C3).
A particularly preferred method of the invention is therefore characterized in that the keratin fibers are shaped using auxiliary shaping means before, after or during step A1), A2), A3) , B1), B2), B3), C1), C2) or C3).
By shaping, which is to be carried out after, before or during step A1) to C3), is meant formatting which is performed temporally directly before, during or after one of the steps A1) to C3), c ' that is, the time interval between mounting of the curler and the application of the particular agent is a few minutes or an hour or a few hours maximum.
The auxiliary means of shaping in the sense of the method of the invention may be, for example curlers, curl or clip in the case of a permanent, or auxiliary means of mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush or a smoothing plate in the case of hair straightening.
A particularly preferred embodiment is a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in the given order the following steps of shaping keratin fibers using auxiliary means of shaping, A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) allowing the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) flushing out the permanent waving agent (a) of the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) applying a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a duration of 2 at 60 minutes, C3) rinse off the agent of fixing (c) keratin fibers, the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or more keratin reducing compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) containing (b1) one or more dicarboxylic acids in C2 These aliphatic and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
Another particularly preferred embodiment is also a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising in the order given the following steps: A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, forms the keratin fibers using auxiliary shaping means, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes. minutes, B3) rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) applying a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of time from 2 to 60 minutes, C3) eliminate by ri the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or more keratin reducing compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) containing (b1) one or more several aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
Another particularly preferred embodiment is also a process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising in the order given the following steps: A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) allow the permanent waving agent (a) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the keratin fibers, B2) allowing the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinsing off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, shaping the keratin fibers using auxiliary shaping means, C1) applying a fixing agent (c) to the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of time from 2 to 60 minutes, C3) eliminate by ri the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, the permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or more keratin reducing compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) containing (b1) one or more several aliphatic C2-C6 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
In the method of the invention described above, the three means (a), (b) and (c) are used successively. The user has these three agents to implement the method advantageously in the form of a multi-component packaging unit, that is to say is a kit-of-parts.
A second object of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for permanently shaping keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises, in separately manufactured form, a container (A). ) containing a permanent waving agent (a) and a container (B) containing a cosmetic agent (b) and a container (C) containing a fixing agent (c) the permanent waving agent (a) containing in the container (A) (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) containing in the container (B) (b1) one or more aliphatic C2-C6 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically salts and (b2) one or more basifying agents and the fixing agent (c) containing in the container (C) (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
The Kit-of-Parts according to the invention comprises at least three containers (A), (B) and (C) made separately which contain the three means (a), (b) and (c). In the container (A) is the permanent waving agent (a) containing at least one keratin reducing compound. In the container (B) is the intermediate treatment agent (b) which contains at least one aliphatic C2 to C6 dicarboxylic acid (b1) and at least one alkalinization agent (b2). Finally, in the container (C) is the fixing agent (c) which contains hydrogen peroxide.
An essential characteristic according to the invention of the permanent waving agent (a) is its content of at least one reducing agent which is cut by reducing the disulfide bonds present in the keratin of the hair and transforming them into thiol groups -SH . Reducing agents of this type are mentioned in the present invention as keratin reduction compounds.
Suitable reducing agents are thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, cystine, 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and / or physiologically acceptable salts of these acids. By a physiologically acceptable salt is meant a salt of the aforementioned compounds which have been converted to their ionic form and which have a physiologically acceptable counterion. A physiologically acceptable salt can be applied to the hair or the skin without causing toxicological disadvantages, i.e. a physiologically acceptable salt of a reducing agent mentioned above is not more toxic and not more sensitizing. that the reducing agent itself. Physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or ammonium salts of the aforementioned acids.
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, cystine, 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts. Thioglycolic acid is also called sulfanylacetic acid or mercaptoacetic acid and has the CAS number 68-11-1. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid.
Ammonium thioglycolate is the ammonium salt of thioglycolic acid (eg, ammonium salt of sulfanylacetic acid) (Formula I)
(Formula I) [0003] Thiolactic acid is understood to mean D-thio-lactic acid, L-thio-lactic acid and / or their mixture. Thiolactic acid is also called 2-mercaptopropionic acid and has the CAS number 79-42-5. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid.
Ammonium thiolactate is the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid (eg, ammonium salt of 2-mercaptopropionic acid) (Formula II)
(Formula II) Thiomalic acid is a compound of formula (III). By thiomalic acid is meant D-thio-malic acid, L-thio-malic acid and / or their mixture. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt of the thiomalic acid.
(III)
By cysteine is meant D-cysteine, L-cysteine and / or their mixture. Cysteine is also called 2-amino-3-mercapto-propanoic acid or 2-amino-3-sulfanylpropanoic acid. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt of cysteine.
Cysteamine is also called 2-aminoethanol and has the formula HS-CH2-CH2-NH2. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of cysteamine are, for example, hydrochloride, hydrobromide, sulfate or hemisulfate.
Cystine is a disulfide that is produced by oxidation of two molecules of the amino acid cysteine. Cystine has CAS numbers 56-89-3. The definition of cystine includes (D, D) -, (D, L) -, (L, D) - and (L, L) -isomers. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt of cystine. 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid is a compound of formula (IV). Suitable physiologically acceptable salts are, for example, the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt of 2-mercaptoethanesulphonic acid.
(IV).
The abovementioned reducing agents are commercially available from different suppliers (Sigma Aldrich, Merck, Fluka or Alfa Aesar, etc.).
Certain reducing agents have been found to be particularly suitable for use in the process and kit-of-parts of the invention. Thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid and / or ammonium thiolactate are particularly preferred, since it has been observed during the application of this reducing agent and then the application of the treatment agent
intermediate (b) a particularly good improvement of the ripple intensity.
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid and / or ammonium thiolactate. The permanent waving agent (a) contains the keratin reducing compound (s) preferably in certain quantitative ranges which provide satisfactory shaping without unduly damaging the keratin fibers. Particularly preferably, the permanent waving agent (a) contains one or more keratin reduction compounds in a total amount of 1.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 15.0%. by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 12.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.5% by weight. All quantitative data are based on the total weight of the keratin reduction compounds that is related to the total weight of the agent (a).
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains, based on the total weight of the permanent waving agent (a) (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds in a total amount of 1.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 4.0 to 12 , 0% by weight and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.5% by weight.
An essential characteristic according to the invention of the agent (b) is its content of one or more aliphatic C2 to C8 carboxylic acids.
Aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids within the meaning of the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated. When the dicarboxylic acids are unsaturated, they may contain one or more double bonds which may be present each time in cis or trans configuration. The C2 to C6 carboxylic acids of the invention are aliphatic, that is to say that they do not contain an aromatic group. In addition, the C2-C6 carboxylic acids of the invention may further carry other substituents such as, for example, one or more oxo groups or hydroxyl groups. The acids are characterized by the presence of two acidic groups (i.e., two carboxyl groups). Tricarboxylic acids (for example citric acid) are therefore not dicarboxylic acids within the meaning of the present invention.
The C2 to C6 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids can also be used in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts. Examples of physiologically acceptable salts are sodium salts, potassium salts or ammonium salts of C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids.
In the course of the work leading up to this invention, it has been found that a particularly good resultant ripple has been obtained on the keratin fibers, which have been treated by the process of the invention, when the treatment agent intermediate (b) contains one or more acids from the group consisting of maleic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, 2-oxo-succinic acid, 2-hydroxymalonic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acids of the maleic acid group. succinic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, 2-oxo-succinic acid, 2-hydroxymalonic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts. Maleic acid is also called cis-butenedioic acid and has the CAS number 110-16-7. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of maleic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Succinic acid, also called succinyl acid or 1,4-butanedioic acid, is an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, crystalline and colorless. The crystals are easily soluble in boiling water. The succinic acid has the CAS number 110-15-6. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of succinic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Fumaric acid is the common name for trans-butenedioic acid. The fumaric acid has the CAS number 110-17-8. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of fumaric acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Oxalic acid is also called 1,2-ethanedioic acid. The anhydrous compound has the CAS number 144-62-7. Even oxalic acid dihydrate can be used and has the CAS number 6153-56-6. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of oxalic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. The other name for malonic acid is 1,3-propanedioic acid. Malonic acid has CAS number 141-82-2. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of malonic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Tartaric acid, also known as 2,3-dihydroxysuccinic acid or 2,3-dihydroxybutanedioic acid, has CAS Nos. 87-69-4 [Form L - (+)], 147-71-7 [Form D - (- )] 147-73-9 [meso form], 133-37-9 [DL form (±)]. All stereoisomers of tartaric acid and their mixtures are in accordance with the invention. The tartaric acid salts are also called tartrates. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of tartaric acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. Malic acid is also called 2-hydroxysuccinic acid, 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid or 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid. Malic acid has CAS numbers 97-67-6 [L - (-) malic acid], 636-61-3 [D - (+) - malic acid] and 6915-15-7 [DL acid (±) -malic]. All stereoisomers of malic acid and mixtures thereof are in accordance with the invention. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of malic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt. 2-Oxosuccinic acid is also called oxaloacetic acid or 2-oxo-1,4-butanedioic acid and has the CAS number 328-42-7. The salts of 2-oxo-succinic acid are called oxaloacetate. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of 2-oxo-succinic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt.
The common name for 2-hydroxymalononic acid having the CAS number 80-69-3 is tartronic acid. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of 2-hydroxymalonic acid are sodium salt, potassium salt or ammonium salt.
The best results with regard to ripple intensity and maintenance effect can be obtained when maleic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, mixtures of these acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts of these acids are used in the cosmetic agent (b).
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2 to C6 dicarboxylic acids of the group containing 1 maleic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized by other terms in that the agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids maleic acid, sodium salt of maleic acid, potassium salt of maleic acid, ammonium salt of maleic acid, succinic acid, sodium salt of succinic acid, the potassium salt of succinic acid, the ammonium salt of succinic acid, fumaric acid, the sodium salt of fumaric acid, the potassium salt of fumaric acid and or the ammonium salt of fumaric acid.
Preferably, the intermediate treatment agent (b) contains the aliphatic C2 to C6 dicarboxylic acids of the invention in specific quantitative ranges. A significant increase in the ripple effect is achieved even with the use of small amounts of acid. However, it is particularly advantageous that the intermediate treatment agent (b) of the invention contains one or more aliphatic C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acids in a total amount of 0.1 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 6.5 to 18.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 9.5 to 17.5% by weight. All of these quantitative data refer here to the total weight of all C2 to C6 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids contained in agent (b), which are related to the total weight of agent (b). In particular, a use amount of 9.5 to 17.5% by weight makes it possible to obtain excellent shaping results with simultaneous reduction of the action time.
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1 ) one or more aliphatic C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acids and / or physiologically acceptable salts in a total amount of 0.1 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 6.5 to 18.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 9.5 to 17.5% by weight.
In addition to the aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids (b1), the intermediate treatment agent (b) very particularly preferably contains one or more alkalinization agents (b2). Without being limited to a theory, the alkalinization agents appear to convert the C2-C6 dicarboxylic acids of the invention into their salts, which are responsible, possibly by bridging of salt, for the increase in the intensity of ripple. Thus, it has been found that the strength and durability of the permanent shaping can be further optimized when using the combination of C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid (b1) and alkalizing agent (b2). ).
As alkalinizing agents, for example, basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine can be used in the intermediate treatment agent (b).
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a kit-of-parts particularly suitable are characterized in that the agent (b) contains (b2) one or more alkalinization agents selected from the group comprising the arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine. Other suitable alkalizing agents include inorganic alkalinizing agents of the group comprising sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate and the like. or the ammonium carbonate.
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that agent (b) contains (b2) one or more alkalinizing agents selected from the group comprising sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate and / or ammonium carbonate.
Finally, the alkalizing agents of the group comprising ammonia and alkanolamines have been found to be particularly suitable for use in the agent (b).
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the agent (b) contains (b2) one or more alkalinizing agents of the ammonia-containing group, 2-amino ethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan 2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methyl-propan-1-ol, amino-2-methyl-propan-2-ol, 3-amino-propane-1,2-diol and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol. Agent (b) may contain several alkalinizing agents. Furthermore, it is particularly particularly preferred that the agent (b) contains (b2 ') one or more alkalinization agents of the group comprising arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine. and further (b2 ") one or more alkalinizing agents of the group comprising ammonia, 2-amino-ethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methyl-propan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methyl-propan-2-ol, 3-amino-propan-1,2-diol and or 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol.
It has been shown that the task of the processes of the invention and the kit-of-parts is particularly well resolved in that the pH value of the agent (b) in the range of 4.5 to 12.0, preferably from 5.5 to 11.0, more preferably from 7.5 to 11.0, and most preferably from 9.0 to 10.5. In this case, the agent (b) has an aqueous cosmetic medium or containing water.
The pH values of the present invention were measured with a Schott N 61 glass electrode at a temperature of 22 ° C.
A particularly suitable process of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the agent (b) is aqueous or contains water and has a pH value of 4.5 to 12.0 preferably from 5.5 to 11.0, more preferably from 7.5 to 11.0, and most preferably from 9.0 to 10.5.
A particularly important corrugation effect, which showed a particularly good resistance, was obtained when the cosmetic intermediate treatment agent (b) contained one of the following combinations of aliphatic C2-C8 diacid (b1) and of alkalinization (b2). For this reason, the three embodiments described below are explicitly the most preferred.
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are characterized in that the agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1 ) from 7.5 to 17.5% by weight of maleic acid and / or succinic acid and (b2) from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine) ), and (b3) water.
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are further characterized in that the agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1) from 7.5 to 17.5% by weight of maleic acid and / or succinic acid and (b2) from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight of arginine and / or histidine and (b3) water.
A method of the invention particularly particularly suitable and a kit-of-parts particularly suitable kit are characterized in that the agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), ( b1) from 7.5 to 17.5% by weight of maleic acid and / or succinic acid and (b2) from 2.0 to 10.0% by weight of potassium hydroxide and / or hydroxide sodium and (b3) water.
Another preferred method of the invention and a particularly suitable kit-of-parts are finally characterized in that the ratio by weight of all of the aliphatic C2-aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (b1) contained in the agent (b) to all the alkalizing agents (b2) contained in the agent (b), i.e. the weight ratio (b1) / (b2), is 1.0 to 5 , 0, preferably from 1.2 to 3.8, more preferably from 1.3 to 2.5 and most preferably from 1.4 to 2.2.
Example: 100 g of an intermediate treatment agent (b) of the invention contain: 15.0% by weight of maleic acid (b1) 10.0% by weight of ethanolamine (b2) 0.3% by weight of arginine (b2).
The weight ratio (b1) / (b2) is (15.0 / [10.0 + 0.3]) = 1.46.
After the application, the action and the rinsing removal of the agent (b), the fixing agent (c) is finally applied in the process of the invention. The application of the fixing agent (c) can preferably be carried out on wet or wet hair with the towel. The fixing agent (c) contains as oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide (c1). The oxidizing agent restores the disulfide bonds in the keratin shaped and fixes the wicks shaped in this way in their new form. The fixing agent (c) contains hydrogen peroxide in a cosmetic medium. In a preferred embodiment, the hydrogen peroxide itself is used as an aqueous solution in the fixing agent (c). The concentration of a solution of hydrogen peroxide is determined here on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably solutions of 1.5 to 12% by weight are used in water. Preferred binding agents (c) according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably 3 to 10% by weight. From 0 to 9.0% by weight and most preferably from 3.5 to 7.5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, relative to the total weight of the fixing agent (c).
In another preferred embodiment, a method and a kit-of-parts of the invention are therefore characterized in that the fixing agent (c) contains, based on the total weight of the agent (c) (c1) from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 9.0% by weight and most preferably from 3.5 to 7.5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide.
Agents (a), (b) and (c) contain all the aforementioned essential elements usually in a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic support may be a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic carrier. For example, the agents (a), (b) and (c) can be applied to the keratin fibers respectively in the form of a cream, an emulsion, a gel or also in the form of a foaming solution containing surfactants, such as, for example, a shampoo, an aerosol foam, a foam formulation, or in the form of another preparation which is suitable for application to the hair.
In addition, the agents of the invention (a), (b) and (c) may additionally contain other corrugation enhancing components such as heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, and the like. , dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine, and derivatives of these compounds such as C1-C4 alkyl derivatives, C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl derivatives, C1-C4 aminoalkyl derivatives. Preferred substituents which can be positioned on the carbon atoms and nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems are methyl, ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl and β-aminoethyl. The preferred derivatives according to the invention of heterocyclic compounds are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) methylimidazole, 1,2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylimidazole, methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2-ethylpiperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2-hydroxy-ethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine. In addition, other preferred imidazole derivatives according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. Imidazole is especially preferred.
Amino acids (in agents (a) and / or (c)) such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine. The amino acids can be used as free amino acid and as salts, for example as hydrochloride. In addition, oligopeptides having on average 2 or 3 amino acids, which have a high percentage (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of said amino acids, have proved to be usable according to the invention. Arginine and its salts and oligopeptides rich in arginine are particularly preferred according to the invention. diols such as 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propropanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol . 1,3-diols, especially 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol have been found to be particularly suitable.
The agents of the invention (a), (b) and (c) may additionally contain at least one oily component. Suitable oily components according to the invention are in principle all oils and fats and mixtures thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. The preferred oily components are those whose solubility in water at 20 ° C is less than 1% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight. The melting point of the individual oily and fatty components is preferably less than about 40 ° C. Oily components, which are liquid at room temperature, i.e., below 25 ° C, may be particularly preferred according to the invention. However, when using several oily and fatty components and possibly solid paraffins and waxes, it is generally also sufficient that the mixture of oily and fatty components, and possibly paraffins and waxes, satisfy these conditions.
A preferred group of oily components are vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, oil almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and liquid coconut oil fractions. However, other triglyceride oils such as liquid beef tallow fractions and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
Another particularly preferred group of oily components which can be used according to the invention are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ether containing in total 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl N-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3 ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether, 2-methyl-n-pentyl octyl ether. Commercially available compounds 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol®S) and di-n-octylether (Cetiol®OE) may be preferred.
The oily components that can be used according to the invention are also esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. This group of substances is constituted by the esterification products of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, for example capronic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, mysric acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, eleaéstearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained for example during the hydrolysis under pressure of fats and natural oils, when reducing aldehydes from Roelen oxo-synthesis or dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, with alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, capric alcohol, l caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprine alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, elaéostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and the like. brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures which are obtained for example during the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes of Roelen's synthesis and as a fraction of monomers in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Isopropyl myristate, C16-C18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid (CetiolOSN), 2-ethylhexyl ester of stearic acid (Cetiol®868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate , coconut fatty alcohol caprate / caprylate and n-butyl stearate are particularly preferred according to the invention.
In addition, esters of dicarboxylic acids, such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, and di-n-butyl acetate are preferred. isotridecyl and diolesters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di- (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, di-pelargonate propylene glycol, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol di-caprylate, are oily components that can be used according to the invention, as well as complex esters such as, for example, diacetyl-glycerol monostearate.
The oily components that can be used in a preferred manner according to the invention are finally also silicone oils, and more particularly dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs, and cyclic siloxanes. Examples of these silicones are the products distributed by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicon), the Dow emulsion
Corning®929 (containing a hydroxyl-amino-modified silicone which is also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt, diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80). Silicone oils having a kinematic viscosity of up to 50,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C., are preferred within the meaning of the invention, silicone oils having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000cSt, measured at 25 ° C., are all particularly preferred. The determination of the viscosity is carried out by the ball fall test according to the "British Standard 188" method. Comparable results are obtained with tests analogous to the "British standard 188" of the manufacturers, for example the "CTM 0577" of Dow Corning Corporation.
In a particular embodiment, cyclic siloxanes such as Dow Corning®344, Dow Corning®345 Dow Coming®244, Dow Coming®245 or Dow Corning®246 products having kinematic viscosities ranging from up to 10000 cSt at 25 ° C determined according to the manufacturer's specifications.
The oily components which can be used according to the invention are finally the dialkyl carbonates, described in detail in DE-OS 197 101 54, to which reference is expressly made. Dioctyl carbonates, particularly di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oily components in the context of the present invention.
In addition, the agents of the invention may contain water-miscible alcohols in only a limited way.
The term "water miscible only in a limited way" means alcohols which are soluble in water at 20 ° C to not more than 10% by weight, based on the mass of the water.
In many cases, triols and in particular diols have proved to be particularly suitable according to the invention. According to the invention, it is possible to use alcohols having from 4 to 20, in particular from 4 to 10 carbon atoms. The alcohols used in the invention may be saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. 1-Butanol, cyclohexanol, 1-pentanol, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinolic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol and behenyl alcohol and Guerbet alcohols thereof, this enumeration being given by way of non-limiting example. However, the fatty alcohols come from preferably natural fatty acids; usually they can be obtained by reduction from fatty acid esters. According to the invention, it is also possible to use cuts of fatty alcohols which are produced by reduction of triglycerides of natural origin such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols and therefore mixture of different fatty alcohols.
The preferred alcohols according to the invention are 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1-butanol, cyclohexanol, 1-pentanol and 1,2-butanediol. In particular, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1-butanol and cyclohexanol are particularly preferred.
In another embodiment, emulsifiers can be used in the agents of the invention. The emulsifiers cause, at the level of the phase boundary, the formation of adsorption layers stable with water or with oil which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and which thus stabilize the emulsion. The emulsifiers are therefore constituted as surfactants from a part of a hydrophobic molecule and a part of a hydrophilic molecule. The hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and the hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. emulsion means a distribution in the form of droplets (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with an expenditure of energy to create stabilization phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The choice of these emulsion-generating or emulsifying surfactants is guided by the substances to be dispersed and the respective external phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Other definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in H.D.D., Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". The emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example, the addition products of from 4 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or from 0.5 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, monoesters and diesters of C 12 to C 22 fatty acids to addition products from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, adducts of ethylene oxide and polyglycerol to esters of methyl glucoside, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C6-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogues thereof, oligomerization levels of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as a sugar component being preferred mixtures of (oligo) glucosides of alkyl and fatty alcohols, for example the commercial product Montanov®68, the adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide of castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, sterols. By sterols is meant a group of steroids which bear on the carbon atom 3 of the steroid structure a hydroxyl group and which are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterol) and vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Also isolated from fungi and yeasts sterols called mycosterols. phospholipids. By this is meant above all glucose phospholipids which are obtained for example in the form of lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from eg egg yolk or plant seeds (eg soybean). fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, for example polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls®PGPH), linear and branched acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their salts of Na, K, Ca, Mg and Zn.
The agents of the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the respective total composition.
Preferably, the agents of the invention may contain at least one non-ionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the definitions presented in Rompp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg, J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), at page 1764. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. The agent of the invention is present as an agent containing water. An agent containing water according to the invention contains at least 40% by weight of water relative to the weight of all the agent. The water-containing agent of the invention may be in various forms, for example in the form of a lotion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.
However, the teaching of the invention also encompasses embodiments of the agent of the invention in which a multiphase agent is present which can not be made from two or more separately prepared preparations until immediately before use. This embodiment may be preferred in the case of incompatible ingredients. It has surprisingly been found that corrugating agents so formulated in equal amounts of keratin reducing components give a significantly improved corrugation effect. Therefore, the waving power, obtained with an agent of the invention, can thus be achieved with a significant reduction in the proportion of keratin reducing substance and thus additional protection of the hair and scalp.
Two-phase or multi-phase systems that can be used according to the invention are systems in which at least two separate continuous phases are present. Examples of such systems are preparations which comprise the following phases: an aqueous phase and a non-aqueous phase which are separately present an aqueous phase and two immiscible non-aqueous phases between them which are each separately an oil-in-oil emulsion and a non-aqueous phase separately has a water-in-oil emulsion and an aqueous phase present separately.
There are no two-phase systems within the meaning of the present invention which are systems in which a single continuous phase is present, such as pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
In addition, it has been found advantageous that the agents of the invention contain an active care substance chosen from protein hydrolysates and their derivatives. Suitable protein hydrolysates include elastin, collagen, keratin, milk albumin, silk protein hydrolysates, soy protein hydrolysates, almond protein hydrolysates, protein hydrolysates, and the like. peas, potato protein hydrolysates, oat protein hydrolysates, corn protein hydrolysates and wheat protein hydrolysates. Herbal products may be preferred according to the invention.
Suitable derivatives are in particular the quaternized protein hydrolysates. Examples of this class of compounds are the products on the market bearing the names LamequaKDL (CTFA designation: Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropylamino Hydrolysed Animal Protein, Grünau), CroquatOWKP and Gluadin®WQ. The latter product, which is of plant origin, may be preferred.
The protein derivatives are preferably present in the agents of the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total amount of the agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5% by weight are preferred.
The agents of the invention preferably further contain at least one conditioning substance.
The preferred conditioning substances contemplated are cationic polymers. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives such as those commercially available under the trade names CELQUAT® and Polymer JR®. The compounds CELQUAT®H100, CELQUAT®L200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
Polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium salts polymers and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The commercial products bearing the names Merquat® 100 (dimethyldiallylammonium polychloride) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of these cationic polymers. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and dialkylaminomethacrylate such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. These compounds are commercially available under the name Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755. the vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolinium methochloride copolymers, such as those proposed under the name Luviquat®, the quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2,
Polyquaternium 17,
Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 having quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone.
Suitable conditioning substances are also amphopolymers. The generic term amphopolymers is understood to mean amphoteric polymers, that is to say polymers which contain free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and which are capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers. which contain in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and -COO "- or -SO 3 'groups, and those polymers which contain -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups, an example of an amphopolymer usable according to the invention is the acrylic resin, available under the name Amphomer®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers of the acrylic acid group; methacrylic acid and their simple esters Also preferred are amphopolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids (eg, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid), unsaturated carboxylic acids with cationic derivation (for example acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride) and possibly other ionic or nonionic monomers, as is apparent, for example, from German publication 39 29 973 and from the state of the art cited in that -this. The terpolymers of acrylic acid, of methyl acrylate and of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, such as those commercially available under the name Merquat®2001 N and the commercial product Merquat®D280, are particularly preferred amphopolymers according to the invention.
The cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the preparations of the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
Suitable conditioning substances are, in addition, silicone gums, such as, for example, the commercial product Fancorsil®LIM-1, and anionic silicones, for example Dow Corningr®1784.
Examples of cationic surfactants that may be used as conditioning agents according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Preferred are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, chloride of distearyldimethylammonium, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. In addition, the readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", can be used, such as the methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkyl ammonium methosulfates used under the Dehyquart® and Stepantex® brands.
The alkylamidoamine, in particular fatty acid amidoamines such as stearylamidopropyldimethylamine obtained under the name Tego Amid®S 18, are characterized by a good conditioning effect specifically because of their good biodegradability.
In addition, it may be preferred to stain the individual phases with dyes to achieve a particularly good visual appearance of the agent. These dyes are preferably soluble only in the aqueous phase or only in at least one non-aqueous phase in an amount which renders a suitable dye visible to the observer. It is also possible to stain both the non-aqueous phase and the aqueous phase with different dyes, preferably of different colors. Unique staining of a non-aqueous phase is preferred. Other constituents customary for the agents of the invention are the following: anionic surfactants such as, for example, soaps, alkyl sulphates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulphates, etherified carboxylic acid salts of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -COOH, wherein R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, the acyl sarcosides, the acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid monoester and alkyl diester, linear alkane sulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alpha-sulfo methyl esters, fatty acids and esters of tartaric acid and citric acid of aklyiglucosides or alkyl alcohols which are adducts of about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. zwitterionic surfactants such as, for example, betaine and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines.
[0004] ampholytic surfactants such as, for example, N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylbutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxy-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids. nonionic surfactants such as adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the C 12 to C 22 alkyl group, fatty acid mono esters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles, and ethylene oxide to glycerol, C6-C22 alkyl monoglycosides and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogues thereof and addition products of from 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil. nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, anionic polymers, such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, and their copolymers with esters and amides of acids acrylic and methacrylic acid and their derivatives which are obtained by crosslinking with polyfunctional agents, polyoxycarboxylic acids such as polyketo and polyaldehyde carboxylic acids and their salts, and polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic acids and methacrylic, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers, organic thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers such as methylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose , gelatins, pectins and / or d xanthan gum, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular those having a restricted homologous distribution, for example a product marketed under the name Arlypon®F (Henkel) on the market, the alkoxylated methylglucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate® DOE 120 (Amerchol) and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as Antil®141 (Goldschmidt) can be preferred organic thickeners, structuring agents such as glucose and maleic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalin, perfume oils, solubilising agents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides and fatty alcohol ethoxylates and derivatives thereof, anti-dandruff agents such as Climbazol, piroctone olamine and OMADINE zinc, active substances such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, Niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts, light-protecting agents, consistency agents such as sugar esters, esters polyol or polyolalkyl ether, fatty acid alkanolamides, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration agents, such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescent agents such as monostearate and distearate ethylene glycol or PEG-3 distearate, direct dyes and propellants, such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
In addition, the agents of the invention (a), (b) and / or (c) may contain other active substances, auxiliaries and additives such as nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, pyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes; additional silicones such as polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone) which may be volatile, linear, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, polyarylsiloxanes and / or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, in particular polysiloxanes having organofunctional groups, such as amines substituted or unsubstituted (amodimethicone), carboxyl, alkoxy and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethiconcopolyols), linear block copolymers polysiloxane (A) -polyoxyalkylene (B), grafted silicone polymers; cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, copolymers of acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone quaternized with sodium sulfate; diethyl, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers, and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers; anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalin; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; active substances which improve the structure of the fibers, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, for example glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugars and lactose; dyes to color the agent; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc Omadine and climbazol; amino acids and oligopeptides; animal and / or vegetable-based protein hydrolysates, and in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally modified anionic or cationic derivatives; vegetable oils; light-protecting agents and UV light inhibitors; active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycumarines, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidines, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, Montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetration agents, such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol monostearate and PEG-3 distearate; pigments and propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
The choice of these other substances will be apparent to those skilled in the art depending on the desired properties of the agents. With regard to other possible components and the quantities used, reference is expressly made to relevant manuals known to those skilled in the art. The additional active and auxiliary substances are used in the agents of the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of application.
As described above, the object of the present invention is the discovery of processes (as well as the production of corresponding Kits-of-Parts) for the permanent shaping of keratin fibers which have a setting effect. particularly important form with as little damage as possible to the keratin fibers.
In the work leading to the present invention, it has been found that the use of metal salts in one or more agents (a), (b) and / or (c) can positively affect the waviness effect, but may also have the disadvantage of excessively damaging the hair. The keratin fibers which have been permanently shaped by use of a metal salt in one of the agents (a) and / or (b) were firstly looped but the keratin fibers had become extremely brittle and fragile, especially after the application of the fixing agent (c) containing hydrogen peroxide.
For this reason, it is particularly preferred that the permanent waving agent (a) and the intermediate treatment agent (b) and the fixing agent (c) be substantially free of divalent and trivalent metal salts.
In another preferred embodiment, a method and a kit-of-parts are therefore characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) is substantially free of divalent and trivalent salts and the cosmetic agent (b) is substantially free of divalent and trivalent metal salts and the fixing agent (c) is substantially free of divalent and trivalent metal salts.
The term "divalent and trivalent metal salts" within the meaning of the present invention means all the bivalent and trivalent metal salts of subgroups 3 to 12, and main groups 3 and 4, in particular: the metal salts of the sub-group; group 4: Ti, Zr, Hf the metal salts of subgroup 5: V, Nb, Ta
the metal salts of subgroup 6: Cr, Mo, W the metal salts of subgroup 7: Mn the metal salts of subgroup 8: Fe, Ru, Os the metal salts of subgroup 9 : Co, Rh, Ir
metal salts of subgroup 10: Ni, Pd, R metal salts of subgroup 11: Cu, Ag, Au metal salts of subgroup 12: Zn metal salts of main group 3: Al, Ga, In, Tl the metal salts of main group 4: Ge, Sn, Pb (the silicon compounds can not be used as metal salts within the meaning of the invention) the metal salts of main group 5: As , Sb, Bi is understood by divalent metal salts, the salts of a metal cation has a double positive charge. The term "trivalent metal salts" means the salts of a metal cation with a triple positive charge. In particular, the presence of TiO2, MnCl2, MnCb, Mn (OH) 2, Mn (OH) 3, FeCl2, FeCl3, Fe (OH) 2, Fe (OH) 3, CuCl2 In this respect, Cu (OH) 2, ZnCl 2, Zn (OH) 2, AlCl 3, Al (OH) 3 have proved disadvantageous.
The term "substantially free of" is understood to mean that certain raw materials may contain metal salts as by-products in small amounts under conditions such that one can not deliberately add metal salts to the agent of (a), (b) and (c).
In a preferred embodiment, a process and a kit-of-parts are therefore characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (a), salts bivalent and trivalent metals with a total content of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, the cosmetic agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b) , divalent and trivalent metal salts with a total content of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, the fixing agent (c) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (c), bivalent and trivalent metal salts having a total content of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
In the method of the invention described above, at least agents (a), (b) and (c) are used, and the Kit-of-Parts described above comprises containers (A), (B ) and (C) made separately.
In addition to these three agents or containers, the process or kit-of-parts may also include another agent, for example a fourth container (D), containing a fourth agent (d). This agent may be a conditioning agent or a shampoo (d), specially adapted to the process, which may be applied in conjunction with the agent (c). It is also conceivable to use the fourth agent (d) as pretreatment agent before the application of the agent (a) to the keratin fibers.
The means (a), (b) and (c) are not mixed together, but applied successively. For this reason, each of the agents is provided to the user advantageously in an amount that makes it possible to cover all the capillary zones to be treated in a sufficient quantity. For example, the agents (a), (b) and (c) may each be present in an amount of 10 ml to 500 ml, preferably 20 ml to 250 ml, and particularly preferably 50 ml to 200 ml in containers (A), (B) and (C).
In principle, there is no time limit for the sequence of steps A1) to C3). Given the deterioration of the keratin fibers, it is necessary to avoid performing steps A1) to A3) and C1 to C3) in a too long time interval. For this reason, steps A1) to C3) are preferably the steps of a permanent shaping process that the user must perform within 48 hours, preferably within 24 hours, more preferably within 12 hours, particularly preferably within 3 hours.
In another preferred embodiment, a process of the invention is therefore characterized in that all process steps of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, permanent waving agent (a) for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the fibers of keratin, B2) allow the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinse off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) apply a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) let the fixing agent (c) act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinse off the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, are carried out in the 48 hours, preferably within 24 hours, more preferably within 12 hours and particularly preferably within 3 hours.
In the state of the art, it is also described an improvement of the result of the shaping by heat input, ie the corrugation effect is optionally enhanced by heating the keratin fibers to a temperature higher in the range of 50 to 220 ° C. Heating of the keratin fibers can be done for example by means of a hair dryer, a heating cap or a flat iron. In this context, it has been discovered that a heat input also causes, during the implementation of the method, an excessive deterioration of the hair. For this reason, all steps A1) to C3) are particularly preferably carried out at a temperature of up to 80 ° C, more preferably at most 60 ° C, still more preferably at 50 ° C and particularly preferably at 45 ° C. C maximum.
In another preferred embodiment, a process of the invention is therefore characterized in that all process steps of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, permanent waving agent (a) for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinsing away the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) applying a cosmetic agent (b) to the fibers of keratin, B2) allow the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinse off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) apply a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allow the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinse off the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, are carried out at a temperature of 80 ° C maximum, preferably 60 ° C, more preferably 50 ° C and particularly preferably 45 ° C maximum.
Another object of the present invention relates finally to the use of aliphatic C 2 to C 8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts to improve the effect of permanent shaping agents on human hair.
With respect to other preferred embodiments of the process of the invention, what has just been for the process and the Kit-of-Parts of the invention apply mutatis mutandis.
Examples
The formulations of the examples below were produced by mixing the raw materials (all data in percent by weight). 1.) Permanent Agent (a)
The following raw materials were used: 1 aqueous solution containing 71% by weight of the active substance 2 25% aqueous solution 3 aqueous solution of 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid containing 60% of active substance (name INCI: Etidronic Acid) (Solutia) 2.) Intermediate treatment agent (b)
polyvinylpyrrolidone, 30% aqueous solution preservatives (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol) 3.) Fixing agent (c)
trimethylhexadecyl ammonium chloride (about 24 to 26% of the active substance, INCI name: Aqua (water), Cetrimonium Chloride) (Cognis) 8 N, N-dimethyl-N-cocoalkylamine N-oxide (about 30% of active substance, INCI name: Cocamine Oxide) (Akzo Nobel) 4.) Permanent waving process
The means (a1), (b1) and (c1) were each tested on locks of hair according to the following method. The locks of locks of treated hair were then evaluated each by 5 people trained. A lock of hair that was treated in a similar manner with the agents (a1) and (c1) (without application of the agent (b1)) was used as reference lock:
Similarly, hair locks were treated by application of the agents (a2), (b2) and (c2) and an evaluation was carried out. A lock of hair that was similarly used with agents (a2) and (C2) (without application of agent (b2)) was used as a reference:
Hair locks were similarly treated with agents (a3), (b3) and (c3) and evaluated. A lock of hair that was treated in a similar manner with the agents (3) and (c3) (without application of the agent (b3)) was used as a reference:

权利要求:
Claims (22)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
claims
1. Process for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising in the order given the following steps consisting of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) to the keratin fibers, A2) let the permanent waving agent (a) work for 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinse out the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) apply a cosmetic agent (b) on the keratin fibers, B2) allow the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinse off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) apply a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinsing off the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, permanent waving agent (a) containing (a1) one or more kera reducing compounds and the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and the fixing agent (c) contains (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the keratin fibers are shaped using auxiliary shaping means before, after or during step A1), A2), A3), B1) , B2), B3), C1), C2) and / or C3).
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. A multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for permanent shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises, in separately manufactured form, a container (A) containing an agent of permanent waving (a) and - a container (B) containing a cosmetic agent (b) and - a container (C) containing a fixing agent (c) - the permanent waving agent (a) containing in the container ( A) (a1) one or more keratin reducing compounds and - the cosmetic agent (b) containing in the container (B) (b1) one or more aliphatic C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and (b2) one or more alkalinizing agents and - the fixing agent (c) containing in the container (C) (c1) hydrogen peroxide.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Method or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds selected from the group consisting by thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, cystine, 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Method or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds of the group comprising the thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thiolactic acid and / or ammonium thiolactate.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Method or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) contains, relative to the total weight of the permanent waving agent (a ), (a1) one or more keratin reduction compounds in a total amount of 1.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 4.0 to 15.0% by weight; 12.0% by weight and particularly preferably 4.5 to 12.5% by weight.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2-C6 dicarboxylic acids of the group formed by the acid maleic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, 2-oxo-succinic acid, 2-hydroxymalonic acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b1) one or more aliphatic C2 to C6 dicarboxylic acids of the group comprising the acid maleic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1) a or two or more aliphatic C 2 to C 8 dicarboxylic acids and / or the physiologically acceptable salts in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 20% by weight. From 5 to 18.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 9.5 to 17.5% by weight.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b2) one or more alkalinization agents chosen from the group comprising arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b2) one or more alkalinization agents selected from the group comprising the hydroxide of sodium, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate and / or ammonium carbonate.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains (b2) one or more alkalinization agents of the group containing ammonia, the 2 amino-ethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1 aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methyl-propan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methyl-propan-2-ol, 3-amino-propane-1,2-diol and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) is aqueous or contains water and has a pH value of 4.5 to 12 , 0, preferably from 5.5 to 11.0, more preferably from 7.5 to 11.0 and most preferably from 9.0 to 10.5.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1) of 7.5 to 17.5% by weight of maleic acid and / or succinic acid and (b2) 5.0 to 15.0% by weight of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), and (b3) water.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1) of 7.5 to 17.5% by weight maleic acid and / or succinic acid and (b2) 1.0 to 10.0% by weight arginine and / or histidine and (b3) the water.
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the cosmetic agent (b) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (b), (b1) of 7.5 to 17.5% by weight of maleic acid and / or succinic acid and (b2) 2.0 to 10.0% by weight of potassium hydroxide and / or sodium hydroxide and (b3) water.
[17" id="c-fr-0017]
17. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the ratio by weight of all the aliphatic C2-aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (b1) contained in the agent (b) to all the alkalizing agents (b2) contained in the agent (b), i.e. the weight ratio (b1) / (b2), is 1.0 to 5 , 0, preferably from 1.2 to 3.8, more preferably from 1.3 to 2.5 and most preferably from 1.4 to 2.2.
[18" id="c-fr-0018]
18. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the fixing agent (c) contains, on the basis of the total weight of the agent (c), (c1) from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 9.0% by weight and most preferably from 3.5 to 7.5% by weight of hydrogen peroxide.
[19" id="c-fr-0019]
19. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the permanent waving agent (a) is substantially free of divalent and trivalent salts and the cosmetic agent (b) is substantially free of divalent and trivalent metal salts and the fixing agent (c) is substantially free of divalent and trivalent metal salts.
[20" id="c-fr-0020]
20. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that all process steps consisting of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) on keratin fibers, A2) let the permanent waving agent (a) work for 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinse out the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) apply a cosmetic agent (b) on the keratin fibers, B2) allow the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinse off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) apply a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinsing the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, are carried out within 48 hours, preferably within 24 hours, more preferably within 12 hours and most preferred within 3 hours.
[21" id="c-fr-0021]
21. Process or kit-of-parts according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that all process steps consisting of A1) applying a permanent waving agent (a) on keratin fibers, A2) let the permanent waving agent (a) work for 2 to 60 minutes, A3) rinse out the permanent waving agent (a) from the keratin fibers, B1) apply a cosmetic agent (b) on the keratin fibers, B2) allow the cosmetic agent (b) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, B3) rinse off the cosmetic agent (b) from the keratin fibers, C1) apply a fixing agent (c) on the keratin fibers, C2) allowing the fixing agent (c) to act for a period of 2 to 60 minutes, C3) rinsing the fixing agent (c) of the keratin fibers, are carried out at a maximum temperature of 80 ° C, preferably 60 ° C, more preferably 50 ° C and so preferably 45.degree. C. maximum.
[22" id="c-fr-0022]
22. Use of aliphatic C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts to enhance the effect of permanent form-forming agents on human hair.

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US20130112219A1|2013-05-09|Essentially ammonia-free waving agent

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FR2926981A1|2009-08-07|Composition, useful e.g. simultaneous styling and conditioning of hair, comprises vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymers, different cationic polymers of vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymers, and anionic and non-anionic surfactant

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KR20180045430A|2018-05-04|Composition for hair care

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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US20170119122A1|2017-05-04|

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GB2549816A|2017-11-01|

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US10925369B2|2021-02-23|

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GB2549816B|2018-11-07|

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FR3042973B1|2020-08-07|

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DE102015221460A1|2017-05-04|

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GB201618413D0|2016-12-14|

引用文献:

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GB773559A|1954-01-29|1957-04-24|Gillette Co|Improvements in or relating to meth ods and compositions for permanent waving of hair|

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JPS5095436A|1973-12-28|1975-07-29|

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DE3929973A1|1989-09-08|1991-03-14|Henkel Kgaa|HAIR CARE|

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ES2088517T3|1991-06-11|1996-08-16|Dystar Japan Ltd|MONOAZOIC DYE.|

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US5858337A|1992-04-16|1999-01-12|Kao Corporation|Intermediate treatment composition for permanent wave|

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FR2721823B1|1994-06-30|1996-08-02|Oreal|Process for the permanent deformation of keratin materials|

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DE19710154C2|1997-03-12|1999-04-01|Henkel Kgaa|Use of dialkyl carbonates|

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DE10120306A1|2001-04-26|2002-10-31|Henkel Kgaa|Vitamin B6 derivatives are used for topical treatment of hair, e.g. after oxidative coloring, permanent waving or bleaching|

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DE102004024506A1|2004-05-18|2005-12-15|Henkel Kgaa|Process for the restructuring of keratinic fibers|

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DE102004050561A1|2004-10-15|2006-04-27|Henkel Kgaa|Color or shape modifying fiber treatment agents with agents to stimulate beta endorphin release in keratinocytes|

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DE102006060944A1|2006-02-21|2007-08-30|Henkel Kgaa|Use of a cosmetic product comprising a selected active ingredient, e.g. a N-acyl tryrosine-arginine dipeptide ester, to sooth the skin during or immediately after oxidative hair treatment|

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EP1880707A1|2006-07-21|2008-01-23|Wella Aktiengesellschaft|Method and composition for permanently shaping hair|

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EP1880709A1|2006-07-21|2008-01-23|Wella Aktiengesellschaft|Method and composition for permanently shaping hair|JP2018514570A|2015-05-01|2018-06-07|ロレアル|Use of activators in chemical processing|

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EP3380200A4|2015-11-24|2019-07-17|L'oreal|Compositions for treating the hair|

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CN108495687B|2015-11-24|2021-11-09|欧莱雅|Composition for treating hair|

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US10828244B2|2015-11-24|2020-11-10|L'oreal|Compositions for treating the hair|

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JP6662093B2|2016-02-24|2020-03-11|味の素株式会社|Aid for adjusting hair shape|

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US11135150B2|2016-11-21|2021-10-05|L'oreal|Compositions and methods for improving the quality of chemically treated hair|

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US10561599B2|2017-05-24|2020-02-18|L'oreal|Methods and kits for treating chemically relaxed hair|

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US20180338895A1|2017-05-24|2018-11-29|L'oreal|Methods for treating chemically relaxed hair|

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US10555891B2|2017-05-24|2020-02-11|L'oreal|Methods for treating chemically treated hair|

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US11090249B2|2018-10-31|2021-08-17|L'oreal|Hair treatment compositions, methods, and kits for treating hair|

法律状态:
2017-10-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2018-10-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2019-08-02| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20190802 |

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2019-10-28| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2020-10-21| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2021-10-21| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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DE102015221460.5A|DE102015221460A1|2015-11-03|2015-11-03|Permanent wave process with improved care performance and corrugation|

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